For their thickness, depth, and strength, grass roots require air, water, and other nutrients. Even a small compaction of the soil can impede the flow of important nutrients that are necessary for the development of turf that is denser and more robust. Your lawn's overall health and appearance can be significantly improved with the addition of a layer of compacted soil that is only one-fourth to one-half inch thick. 1 The process of aeration involves creating holes deeper within the soil to relieve compaction and make it possible for air, water, and nutrients to reach the grass roots.
Lawn grasses that are grown in soil that has been compacted suffer from a diminished ability to adapt to adverse conditions, such as high temperatures and insufficient precipitation, and they lose their vibrant, healthy color. Because of a deficiency in oxygen, water, and nutrients that are only a few millimeters away, grasses gradually become less dense and ultimately perish altogether. Your lawn can be put back on an upward trend with as little as a single aeration treatment, which will open the way for these essentials to achieve their mark and put your lawn back in good health.
WHEN LAWNS NEED AERATION
It might not seem possible for your grass to become compacted, but it actually happens more frequently than you might imagine. Even activities like outdoor partying or yard play by children and pets can leave all or part of your lawn more compacted than it was before. The most obvious offenders are things like vehicles or small equipment that are driven on lawns. If you reside in an area where thick clay soil is typical, aerating your grass once a year is generally required in order to prevent it from becoming thin and brittle.
Although dethatching and aerating are two separate activities, they are frequently performed together. Thatch is a layer of decaying organic debris that grows directly on the surface of a lawn, in the space that lies between the soil and the grass. When thatch reaches a thickness of more than half an inch, it acts similarly to compaction in that it blocks the movement of air, water, and nutrients that grasses require. More thatch is produced by lawns made of Bermudagrass in the north, and by lawns made of other varieties of grass in the south. Aeration can help penetrate and lessen the buildup of thatch, or it can prepare the thatch to be removed by dethatching.
It is possible that you have a problem with compaction if your grass frequently appears stressed, if the soil is difficult to the touch, or if rainwater pools in areas where it used to be absorbed. Confirm your assumptions with a straightforward procedure known as the "screwdriver test." Use a standard screwdriver to poke holes in the ground all around your yard, and do it by hand. It ought should be rather simple to slide in. If you encounter resistance, it means that your soil is compacted; aeration may be able to aid.
WHEN TO AERATE YOUR LAWN
To get the finest results from aerating your grasses, you should do so either during or immediately before to the period in which they are at the height of their natural growth potential. This is true for the majority of larger lawn projects, such as planting grass seed. Lawns benefit from aeration, but if done at the wrong time of year, it can be stressful to the grass. Never aerate dormant lawns.
When aerating lawns with cool-season grasses, such as those found in northern lawns, the optimal time to do so is in the early fall or early spring. Late spring or very early summer is the optimal time to aerate lawns that are typically comprised of warm-season grasses, such as those found in the south. Grass recovers fast and fills in areas where aerator equipment has exposed soil when it is performed at the same time as active growth.
When the soil is already moist from irrigation or rain that occurred the day before, aerating your lawn is easier on both you and the person operating the equipment you use. Aerating soil that is overly dry might be difficult; therefore, adding moisture makes the process simpler. Never aerate lawns that are too saturated; you should wait a few days instead.
Why Thatch Damages Lawns
When there is an excessive buildup of thatch, the roots of your turf may not get enough oxygen. Even worse, it can provide a safe haven for disease-causing organisms and insects, contributing to an already substantial pest problem.
If you let thatch accumulate on your lawn, it will suffocate. Lawn aeration, whether in the spring or fall, is useful for minimizing the buildup of thatch. Lawn aeration might be as easy as poking holes in the soil here and there with a pitchfork or spading fork, but this is only effective for superficial problems. Lawns in greater need of aeration will require core aeration, hence this method isn't recommended. Instead of just sifting the leaves off the surface of the grass in the fall, you should rake thoroughly to get rid of as much thatch as possible.
Problems With Compacted Soil
Lawn aeration also breaks up compacted soil, allowing water, air, and nutrients to permeate into the root zone. Grassy areas submitted to constant foot traffic (or, worse, car traffic) require lawn aeration more frequently than out-of-the-way areas.
HOW TO AERATE YOUR LAWN
Aerating equipment comes in three main types, from small manual versions to larger tractor-like or pull-behind machinery:
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Spike aerators simply poke a hole down into the soil with a solid, spike-like tine. Some homeowners wear spiked aerator “sandals" strapped to their shoes to aerate as they do yard work. While these can help on a small scale, spike machines can make compaction worse by pressing soil together around the holes.1
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Slicing aerators have rotating blades that cut or slice through grass and thatch and down into soil. Like spike aerators, slicing aerators leave soil in the ground, but they create pathways for air, water and nutrients without causing more compaction.
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Core or plug aerators, typically preferred by lawn professionals, use rows of hollow tines that remove plugs of soil from your lawn and deposit them on top, where they break down. The size of the plugs and the holes they create vary in width and depth, depending on the machine used.
To have your lawn professionally aerated, you can hire a lawn service, but you can also do it yourself. Aerator machines are commonly available for hire at equipment rental places and lawn and garden retailers, and usually come with some basic operating instructions. Working back and forth across your grass to aerate it is similar to mowing. Pay special attention to any trouble spots, such as dog runs and backyard baseball fields. To get the best results, you should make many passes in different directions.
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WHAT TO DO AFTER AERATION
When you're done aerating your grass, let the soil plugs or any leftover soil where it lands to dry. The next time you mow your grass, they'll break down and offer valuable soil and organic matter.
Overseeding with premium Pennington Smart Seed, fertilizing, and performing minor grass repairs are all excellent tasks for the period immediately following aeration. With the holes your aerator has made, seeds and nutrients can make direct touch with the soil, and the roots can find new routes to them. This synergistic effect can help your lawn get off to a running start, allowing for faster seed germination and denser, lusher growth.
Your lawn's potential for thickness, health, and beauty can be realized in part by including aeration on your annual to-do list or by doing regular compaction tests to check for need. If you want a beautiful lawn, Pennington has the high-quality grass seed and maintenance supplies you need.
